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Matt SR
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My wife and I recently had the pleasure of visiting Denmark and Sweden, skipping between Copenhagen, Stockholm, and Gothenburg. We originally planned a Covid trip for 2020, and we were excited to finally get it back on the books for a change of scenery and fun metropolitan travel. Being the good coaster enthusiast that I am, I also took the opportunity to visit not one, not two, but four parks along the way, tapping some genuine bucket list items on the way!

I’ll spare you the boring historic and notable tourist stop pieces, and focus right in on the parks. :p

Tivoli Gardens
We decided to go to Tivoli our first night in town, both as a way to beat the jet lag and get to witness the gorgeous nightlights folks often speak so fondly of. We were not disappointed!

Off the bat, Tivoli’s small yet charming setting immediately sets in – while I herald from one of the world’s also oldest amusement parks (Cedar Point, 1870), it is fascinating to see how such a metropolitan amusement park can endure and remain true to spirit through the years. It’s a truly remarkable place, jam-packed with equal parts thrills and restauranteur.

Our entry (which was only blocks away from our hotel I might add) put us right next to Rutsebanen – might as well start off with a bang!

Rutschebanen
You cannot expect much (honestly) from the world’s oldest roller coaster. But even then, I was surprised by how great a ride this coaster still gives, not to mention the charm dripping from fake mountain to mountain. It’s no surprise Walt Disney went with such an alpine theme for the first modern roller coaster checks yearbook 45 years later!

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An absolutely idyllic coaster, with airtime to boot – it’s amazing to have a still, remaining specimen of roller coastering’s humble beginnings.

The Mine
Sure, what’s this other water ride right next door? An endearing dark water ride shooter tucked into Rutschebanan? Why not! Fun, cute log flume ride.

Mælkevejen
I am not a fan of powered coasters of any flavor – they always feel a cop-out, and against the spirit of what a roller coaster should be. And yet, this one packs some serious punch! The coaster has a fun, swooping climb to the top of a tight-fixed helix, which leads to great speed bursts as you hurtle back down towards the station. I’m curious to dig more into it’s previous Mack Powered Predecessor to see if it had a same layout, but higher marks than I expected. And the coaster train design? A solid +3 points.

Daemonen
This was the coaster I was most looking forward to riding. Not only for being the most modern of thrill rides on the slate, but because it was amongst the first (yes I know Dark Knight and Insane Speed came out earlier, bear with me) in small roller coaster design, opening in 2004 as an anti-thesis to the roller coaster wars that felt raging here in America. Daemonen’s inclined loop and tight, hugging layout just felt a complete departure from tallest, fastest coaster design at the time, and I was excited to give it a whack!

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There is nothing simpler to say than I was grinning from ear-to-ear, start-to-finish. It’s a great layout for what it is, with tight inversions and fun pops of airtime. It merited an instant reride to be sure I wasn’t missing anything, as a reride on Hydra last year didn’t yield the same good feelings I recalled from it’s opening year (2005). And the overall oriental theming for this section of the park to blend alongside the coaster? Excellent execution.

Kamelen
Look it’s a bog standard Zamperla kiddie cred – but it’s a rather pretty one at that!

Overall Atmosphere and Curb Appeal
It’s easy before you step into the park to see how overflowing the aesthetic is, and honest cultural center it is to Copenhagen. Something I did not expect was the restauranteur crowd, and what a footprint the restaurant scene has – complete with an external-facing food hall! Absolutely loved this, where the park going crowd is truly there for a “park” experience, rather than only being there for “amusement”.

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As we retreated back to our hotel for a very-late dinner (a whole two blocks away), we could hear Daemonen’s lift hill ratcheting away and distant screams of riders. So cool to have amusement park sound reverberating through the City streets!

After a day, we decided to make our next roller coaster trek, this time hopping a regional train north to an old royal hunting ground…

Bakken
For the American reader, Waldameer is the best way to describe the general Bakken vibe. But only, swap a Great Lake for a massive forest (which made for a lovely picnic before we entering the park!) As the oldest amusement park in the world, it’s “carney” appeal and individual stalls and restaurant-operator vibe comes naturally, giving the feel of an amusement park that has stood the test of time as individual attractions and stalls change hands.

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We started in on some of the fun flat ride attractions, including the racing bumper cars, indoor dark jungle truck ride, and haunted house doom buggies. But soon, the roller coasters beckoned.

Rutschebanen
We had to do a comparison to Tivoli’s Rutschebanen to see which one Valdemar Lebech built better. Bakken’s Rutschebanen is a quirkly one – objectively it is the worse coaster, in part because of the spartan braking system that was added in 2010 to remove the need for a brake man (with Kumbak trains to complement), which kills much of the coasters flow and charm. But the layout does have noticeably faster segments and longer hills, which still gives fun pops of airtime and “oh is this a good idea for a side friction rail?”

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That these roller coasters remain in operation to this day is phenomenal, and so cool to have a ridable part of history.

Tornado
You knew it was eventually coming. I knew it was coming. But boy howdy was I never prepared to learn that ABSOLUTELY EVERYTHING SAID ABOUT THIS ROLLER COASTER IS TRUE. From the chain launch liftwhich truly truly hurtles your train into free space to the layout that has zero recall as you’re too busy worrying if the updated Intamin OTSRs would be capable of severing off your head from the massive lateral g-force; it’s a riot of a coaster. It’s Intamin at it’s best, developing truly astonishing roller coaster experience.

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Mine Train Ulven
Speaking of Intamin, I had no idea Ulven was such a sleeper of an Intamin “family” coaster. I hopped aboard expecting a relatively tame, Zier-style ride. But the layout packed surprising punch, with tight-to-the-ground curves and hills that really yoink in the back train. Overgrowth of the surrounding fauna and added Swedish station charm just make it even more of a genuinely great ride.

Mariehønen
Getting to ride the “original roller coaster type of Roller Coaster Tycoon” with proper lady bug theme? Too cute.

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Vilde Mus
So that’s what Dark Knight would have been like if Six Flags cut the indoor bull****? It’s one of the better wild mouse layout designs.

All round Bakken was a true gem of a park – no big fuss and such a leisure come-and-go atmosphere. We capped off our day with two cans of Blanc 1664 (a wheat beer surprisingly hard to find in the States) at the nearby beach to watch the sunset before hopping the train back into town. … with yet two more cans of Blanc 1664.

The next few days yielded equal parts of sightseeing, bicycling, and grabbing the occasional beer by the harborside. Eventually we were due for our first major transfer, and hopped the train north to Stockholm!

Gröna Lund
Similar to Tivoli Gardens, Gröna Lund sits in the heart of it’s home city, in an even more idyllic location right along the Stockholm harbor. Also similarly, a significantly-higher-than-I-expected population of park goers attend for anything but the amusement attractions, rather opting for restaurants, floating bars, and a super active concert series nestled right in the middle of the park. (They shut down a number of the nearby attractions for increased viewing space)

Let’s jump into the coasters, shall we?

Monster
This was first up on the docket, and the one I was most excited to visit. The long-chronicled construction of Monster felt epic in vision and challenge to squeeze a (still small) B&M invert into the middle of already cramped real estate. But man I was not ready for how brilliantly nestled the coaster and it’s queue are within the park; I still have yet to figure out how exactly the queue connects.

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But to the ride experience, I can only describe it as a near perfect experience. Hear me out: Monster was always designed and intended to be a small layout that tightly interweaves with the surrounding built environment. And it’s execution is ohhh soooo gooood.

Seriously, from start to finish this coaster packs a punch, thanks in part to a great first drop that gives a lot of zip throughout the remaining tight twists and (sometimes inverting) turns. It’s hard not to rank it higher, even if it lacks in the statistic department.

Vilda Musen
A fun and unique wild mouse layout, always a fan of those that have the classic zero-bank turns and larger drops. With the sad news of Jetliner’s retirement and possible removal, it will be curious what difference that will have Vilda’s ride experience, as the layout is inherently designed to be interwoven with other coasters.

Insane
Ahhh it’s nice to be back on an Intamin ZacSpin. It’s just as I remembered the original incarnation of SFMM’s Green Lantern (before it’s bastardization), with great pops of airtime and not knowing when the next train flip will come. S&S has improved on the concept with their new 4D coasters for sure, but Insane’s setting right on the water’s edge gives it amazing curb appeal.
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Kvasten
I don’t know how many times I need to say it, but don’t sleep on Vekoma “Family” Inverted Coasters! This was their largest model spec (395m), which I’ve also ridden at Fun Spot Orlando (Freedom Flyer), which packs quite a punch. The continuing theme of interweaving with nearby roller coasters and attractions only adds to a fun theme – the coaster actually takes up more real estate than most others in the park.

Nyckelpigan and Tuff-Tuff Taget
These were ridden. We needn’t discuss further, for sake of personal dignity.

Other Ride Notes
  • Twister was sadly closed due to significant retrack work. Bummer to miss it (and such a beautiful setting), but glad it’s back up for the summer holiday.
  • We did the additional-fee haunted house attraction and free haunted house dark ride; the pay-for haunted house is easily skippable, and honestly only did it to see the Sally Entertainment animatronics. The regular haunted house ride though was hands down the best I’ve ever ridden – seriously fun, with a lot of great rework recently done!
  • We also did a proper fun house, which are rarity in America. So fun going through different optical illusions and trickery.
  • The Paulaner beer garden underneath Monster was a true highlight – small simple setting, but amazing people (and roller coaster) watching.
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We continued adventures in Stockholm over the next few days – ironically did not get to the alpine coaster that was right near our flat rental at the nearby ski run (oops). But next stop we were back on the train, this time for Gothenburg!

Liseberg
Exiting the train we headed immediately to Liseberg for a locker rental and some quick ride touring around while we waited for our accommodations to become available (also stayed at Liseberg cabins, a quick 3 train stops away), and then returned again for evening riding. This was definitely the most “corporate” of amusement park experiences, and one that felt closest to a typical amusement park experience as a larger park layout and ride offering. Still, the park takes advantage of the hillside setting better than I expected over pictures, which really added a lot of variation to ride placement and layout.

Balder
I was honestly chuffed to finally get to Balder. This was one of the first roller coasters I remember following from start-to-finish in my roller coaster career as a wee teenager. And the concept of prefabricated wood was still new at the time (Colossos opened two years prior), with the Intamin fever pitch feeling an all-time high (TTD also opening the same year, KK right behind it).

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The ride itself was perfectly good – by 2003 standards it’s an aggressive, smooth wooden coaster (and won the Mitch Hawker Poll twice I believe). But today’s measure, it has some fun twists and turns, with a good figure-8 homage – no more, no less. The ride is really more a “classic”, 20+ year old draw, but one that still made me giddy to say I had the chance to get on.

Valkyria
I haven’t ridden any of the smaller B&M Dive Machine designs, only the 200+ ft. models, so was excited to ride a “shorter” option, and reputably one of the better ones at that. And this reputation was easily uphelp, with a solid pacing throughout the entire ride. I especially liked the faster pace through the inversions, with less hangtime than it’s bigger brothers. All round great dive machine!

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Rabalder
Nice, smaller family coaster layout, with a notably high throughput that makes it a great reride option for smaller thrill seekers.

Stampbanan
Kiddie credit acquired.

Lisebergbanan
I was very intrigued to get on this not-Schwarkzkopf-but-designed-by-Schwarzkopf coaster. Is it a mine train? Is it terrain coaster? Is it a family coaster? The answer: Sure.

Seriously, it packed so much more of a punch than I expected (probably something more akin to SooperDooperLooper at Hershey). Very high speed, especially throughout the bowl feature, I just really enjoyed the long hills and drawn out turns as they careen throughout the hillside.

Helix
Speaking of careening throughout the hillside – finally to Helix! The queue was annoyingly longer for this than others, but I guess that’s what you get for a top ranked attraction.

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I went into the coaster with a little bit of hype build-up, recall back to Helix’s opening, there was a lot of “Maverick killer” talk that surfaced, but also felt quickly subsiding. While I know many ended up ranking Helix at #1 or close thereabouts, it always felt like the “hype” faded or was dismissed.

Comeon y’all, you’re burying the lead on how good this is!

I’m always skeptical on layouts that have inversion after inversion, but Helix did a good job still having variety and flow built in, so it didn’t fell like a perpetual spin cycle in a laundry machine. The layout also leveraged the hillside play quite well, and really made for some genuine “oh crap!” moments when you hurtle quite high above the treeline. If I have a gripe, it’s that Macks can get sleepy on their finishing elements (no, tight left-right turns just aren’t thrilling), I came off the coaster with a massive smile on my face.

Luna
This was a fun cap-off to the park and, hilariously, my first Vekoma family boomerang (despite having two open this year, significantly closer to where I live!). Absolutely loved the asthetic and theming, especially perched atop the Liseberg hill to give you a (quite scary, honestly) height perspective as the coaster train whizzes through the straight shot layout. The spike likewise gets you significant hangtime, with a fun return journey as the train rewinds. And the roller coaster’s station? Absolutely immaculate, and amazing dedication to really give the coaster a sense of place and space.
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After all things amusement park travel, we were back to Copenhagen for a last day before hopping onto the jet back to the States. We were sure to swing out to CopenHill for some artificial turf skiing - grateful to say we survived doing a run all the way down!

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Final Thought
All in I was so grateful to have the chance to visit these parks - a true dream come true to get to ride Balder or step foot into Tivoli!
 

DoctorAgonMD

Roller Poster
Wow... This park looks A-MAY-ZING! I was planning a trip to Tivoli last month but sadly had to cancel at the last minute. Balder and Insane are just begging to be ridden! Thank you for this report! :)
 
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